When thinking of
vintage jewelry manufacturers, one can pretty easily drop names like Coro , Trifari and
Barclay, three of many well-known manufacturers that were active in the Retro
era. The Retro era is generally defined as the years between 1935 and 1950 or
so, the World War II era, when platinum, gold and base metals for such
frivolous uses as jewelry manufacturing were scarce. Gold-filled and sterling,
using both semi-precious and synthetic gemstones became more prevalent and the
lines between fine and costume pieces blurred a bit due to the scarcity of
manufacturing materials in general.
The earmarks of the Retro index finger ring period include the use
of larger rhinestones and cleaner, less fussy designs than that of the Art Deco
period preceding it. Among the manufacturers of the Retro period was Harry
Iskin, who was a wholesale manufacturer from 1930 or so until the early 1950s.
Harry Iskin's business apparently ended in bankruptcy in 1953.
The majority of Rings
Women designs features a stylized love heart angel wings floral or
bow motif with good sized, well-placed rhinestone accents. Iskin designs can be
found both in gold fill and sterling silver and it doesn't appear that Iskin
produced pieces using lower-quality metals (i.e., pot metal) during this time.
Iskin's designs are easily recognizable after viewing even just a piece or two.
Graceful bows and curlicues abound, oftentimes in shades of both yellow gold
and rose gold. Iskin pieces can be found with a variety of colorful prong-set
rhinestones--deep wine reds, vibrant blues, emerald greens--although Iskin generally
did not mix colors on the same piece unless it was to incorporate clear
rhinestones as accents.
Run a quick internet search for "Harry Iskin" and you will come up
with a bunch of fine examples of his work. If you might have an interest in
acquiring a piece or two of Iskin jewelry, be sure to acquaint yourself with
the distinctive "I inside an H" manufacturer's mark used by the Iskin
Company--photos of the mark are also easily found with a quick internet search.
Oddly, though Iskin designs are clean and stylish, using quality materials and
feature prong-set, rather than glued, rhinestones, Iskin isn't regarded as a
top-end manufacturer. Consequently, Harry Iskin pieces can still be had for a
relative song, whether you purchase from an online vintage costume jewelry site
or try your hand at eBay bidding. A beginning collector of vintage costume
jewelry would do well to start by adding an Iskin piece or two to their
acquisitions. Iskin's well-made products, still looking good after 65-plus
years, indeed withstand the test of time.
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